Concrete, searing heat and £12 beers: inside Doha’s World Cup fan festival | World Cup 2022

In the tetchy heat of a Doha lunch hour, there was a welcome loosening of ties – and then, surprisingly, of tongues. It got here as Fifa launched a World Cup fan festival so huge that 40,000 supporters will quickly be capable of congregate in shared communion close to the Corniche: to observe, to cheer, to drink overpriced beer, if solely between 7pm and 1am. Perhaps even to like, too.

“It shall be a multidimensional, festival-like expertise,” promised Gerdine Lindhout, Fifa’s head of experiential advertising and promotion. “It’s not nearly soccer, it is about gaming, life-style and wonderful meals. We have determined to go enormous in Doha!”

But shortly afterwards, as Lindhout confronted questions from the world’s media, her company spiel pale and she sounded extra human than a Fifa official has completed in many years. Asked what her message could be to those that need to convey rainbow flags into the fan festival, she smiled. “Go for it,” she stated. “This occasion is all about celebration.”

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This is a World Cup like no different. For the final 12 years the Guardian has been reporting on the problems surrounding Qatar 2022, from corruption and human rights abuses to the remedy of migrant employees and discriminatory legal guidelines. The better of our journalism is gathered on our devoted Qatar: Beyond the Football residence web page for individuals who need to go deeper into the problems past the pitch.

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The Dutchwoman was even bolder when the tough tariff of the questions was raised. What, as an illustration, would you say to homosexual England followers who may be nervous about visiting Qatar for the event, which kicks off this Sunday?

“I’ve been coming right here for the final 4 years and have felt not simply protected however welcome,” she replied. “England followers ought to come right here. It shall be a life-changing expertise.”

Given Qatar is a spot the place males can face 5 years’ imprisonment underneath article 296 of Qatar’s penal code for “inducing or seducing a male in any technique to commit unlawful or immoral actions”, and the place Human Rights Watch not too long ago detailed a number of instances of the LGBTQ+ neighborhood being overwhelmed and imprisoned by the authorities, these phrases gave the impression of a quiet revolution.

Gerdine Lindhout, Fifa's head of experiential marketing, talks to reporters at Al Bidda Park in Doha.
Gerdine Lindhout, Fifa’s head of experiential advertising, talks to reporters at Al Bidda Park in Doha. Photograph: Tom Jenkins/The Guardian

How may they not when the Qatari authorities and Fifa have tiptoed across the problem for over a decade, in what seems to quantity to their very own model of “do not ask, do not inform”?

Was it a case of Lindhout by chance going off message? Or talking extra in hope than expectation? Perhaps. But she was speaking very particularly about Fifa venues in Qatar, the place it seems to be the case that the authorities will look the opposite method relating to holding palms and kissing.

Certainly when pressed once more about what the expertise could be like for homosexual followers inside Fifa venues, Lindhout couldn’t have been clearer. “We welcome everybody, together with the LGBTQ+ neighborhood,” she stated.

The Fifa Fan Festival at Al Bidda Park.
The Fifa Fan Festival at Al Bidda Park in Doha because it seemed on Wednesday afternoon. Photograph: Tom Jenkins/The Guardian

“Based on the expertise I’ve had, there is no such thing as a threat. They are welcome to precise themselves and their like to their companions. They will not get into bother for sharing public shows of affection.”

Admittedly, Lindhout additionally urged western followers to discover a center floor between their values ​​and these of the conservative Gulf state, which was actually extra on script. But moments later she once more insisted that the tradition in Qatar had modified. “Respect the tradition, use your widespread sense, however nothing is forbidden on the Fifa fan festival,” she added. “We are very happy with it.”

In reality, at 1pm on Wednesday afternoon the festival didn’t appear to be a venue poised to cost up the Tripadvisor vacationer charts. At a media showcase hours earlier than a Michael Jackson tribute act launched a take a look at occasion to iron out any late teething issues, it largely resembled an enormous concrete automobile park with overpriced meals (a tiny Greek salad price £10, a slice of pepperoni pizza £8 ) and little escape from the 32C heat.

However, Lindhout dismissed fears that it may be too sizzling for followers. “It is unquestionably sizzling, however there are sufficient areas the place there’s a shadow and we have now sufficient refreshing drinks so I do not see an issue,” she stated. “People have to make use of their logical minds – and costume for the event. Wear your shorts, put on one thing gentle and get pleasure from some refreshing beverage.”

England followers is not going to be overwhelmed to study that there’s only one beer stand, promoting Budweiser for practically £12 for 500ml. Or that they’ll face an extended queue harking back to a passport management in a European airport post-Brexit, to purchase a most of 4 beers.

That stated, there seems no restrict on the quantity of beer that may be ordered all through the evening. Which may result in acquainted issues when tensions are operating excessive and the booze is flowing freely.

Barriers for queuing stand ready at the Fan Festival's only place to buy beer.
Barriers for queuing stand prepared on the Fan Festival’s solely place to purchase beer. Photograph: Tom Jenkins/The Guardian

However, Lindhout claimed Fifa would attempt to give some leeway for followers to get pleasure from themselves whereas others remained protected. “We need an expertise for all followers, however security is necessary,” she added. “I believe with the safety measures in place we shall be superb.”

On the plus aspect followers can even be capable of see the World Cup and Jules Rimet trophies within the Fifa museum close to the enormous display that may present the video games, in addition to a variety of well-known jerseys, together with Roger Hunt’s from England’s 1966 World Cup victory and Diego Maradona’s from a 1986 warmup match.

And because the solar started to set, and 20,000 locals started to stream in to see the Michael Jackson impersonator belt out the hits, it started to really feel extra like an actual occasion. Not everyone seems to be satisfied, thoughts. When the Guardian posted photos of the venue on social media, a number of customers reckoned that: “This World Cup goes to be Fyre festival and Woodstock 99 rolled into one”.

However, Mead Alemadi, who’s in command of the Fan Festival, is assured that it will likely be an amazing success. “We’ve waited 12 years for this and we’re so completely satisfied to see all this occur,” he stated. “People right here shall be having enjoyable, stay matches with one of the best view of the Doha skyline. This would be the greatest festival within the historical past of the World Cup.”

Perhaps. But that may depend upon what occurs inside this cavernous 300,000 sq. meter venue within the subsequent month – and that, sadly, stays an open query.

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